Trap Facts

Lessons #1-4 are from the ATA rule book. Lesson #5 is a combination of the ATA and SCTP trap etiquette guidelines. Lessons #6-8 are from my gunsmithing training. Lesson #9 has a few of my own personal learning resources and influences. Lesson #10 is where the theories begin.

I recently attended Phil Kiner's Trap Clinic and most of the theory lessons will be based on my notes from his instruction. You can read Phil's articles every month in Trap&Field magazine. Phil's DVD's and trap shooting clinic info are available at http://www.philkiner.com/ .

*These lessons are focused on trap shooting and may not apply to other shooting sports*

If you have any questions please email or see me at the range.

#12 Cross-firing

This is possibly the biggest problem in trap shooting. In lesson #6, I discussed eye/hand dominance or cross dominance. In this lesson I'll report on the finding from Phil Kiner's research into cross-firing from people with a same eye/hand dominance. It only occurs in two eyed shooters.

Cross-firing is a rapid shift of eye dominance after the target appears and until the trigger is pulled. It occurs in 98% of all women and 30% of all men (but a much higher percent of middle aged and older men). Symptoms include missing targets on the left side, having to shoot behind left angle targets for breaks, and having to shoot in front of right angle targets for breaks. You can also see a cross-firing shooter move his barrel in a "z" or "c" motion as their vision makes the shift.

Most of us can't see the shot string in real time. We can see the wad fly and the barrel move. You can not tell where a person is missing from the wad or barrel movement. High speed video shows time after time the consistent miss on the left or poor hit on the left edge of the target. We have been told that shooting with two eyes open is the best method, but the cross-firing shooter will have to take several steps to stay two eyed or switch to one eye which can be a very effective method of trap shooting.

Cross-firing gets worse with fatigue, under stress, and with aging. If caught in it's early stages, Phil found it may be controlled or mitigated to some degree. Step one is to strengthen the dominate eye using his exercise program or by wearing an eye patch (over the weak eye) 30 minutes a day. Step two is to add a sight blinder to the rib. Step three replace your bead with a green bead. Step four add dots, tape, and more tape, and side blinders to your shooting glasses weak eye lense. Step 5 complete taping of the lense. Step 6 closing the weak eye.

Remember if you switch to one eye shooting your hold point must move down to the roof of the trap house. Focus on the target, hard focus on the target remains critical whether one or two eyed shooting.

Lessons to remember

High speed video is the best way to check for cross-firing. If you suspect cross-firing, test out the above steps to see if you get more and harder breaks.

#11 Hold Points, Look Points

See graphics, Instructional Pics

There is not a perfect hold/look point that works for every shooter. There is an optimal hold/look point that works best for you. Only you can determine this point through testing.

Hold points are much simpler than look points. The purpose of the hold/look point is to allow you to see/move to/break the target as efficiently as possible. For a two eyed shooter station 1 might be 0-3 feet above the left corner of the trap house. Station 2, 0-3 ft. above the roof, 1/4 distant from left corner. Station 3, 0-3 feet above the roof, middle of the trap house. Station 4, 0-3 feet above the roof, 1/4 distance from right edge. Station 5, 0-3 feet above the roof, right corner of the house. One eyed shooters use the same horizontal hold points but vertically may be no higher than the front edge of the roof of the trap house and as low as the back edge of the trap house. Both horizontal and vertical hold points can be adjusted depending on conditions such as wind, light, back ground, target speed/angle, AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, YOUR ABILITY TO CLEARLY SEE THE TARGET!

Look points (where you look prior to calling "pull") are more complicated and differ for each person. You are dealing with 3 dimensions. The object of your look point is to clearly see the target and its angle (flight path) as quickly as possible without inducing "panic" and it's ensuing bad move to the target. We all have primary (hard) focus and secondary (soft) focus. Often, you first see the target in the soft focus then lock on to it in the primary (hard) focus. Ideally, you will see the target very clearly and not as a streak (like a comet with a tail).

Look point focal distance is the most individual part. Most people focus more slowly from near to far than vise versa. Therefore we do not want to look at our beads or any place behind the trap house. Distance focus should be at least the front edge of the trap house and most people find that focusing as far as the 50 yard stake works well for them.

Look point vertical position is also based on individual vision. Some great shooters have looked down into the front of the house. Other great shooters look above their rib. Everyone's eyes are different, only you can tell where you pick up (see clearly) the target first.

Look point horizontal position is simpler. A legal trap target can only leave the house in a relatively small area. On stations 1&2, the area above the left half of the house, station 3 the middle third above the house, and stations 4&5, the right half above the house.

Lessons to remember

The eyes go to the target first, the gun follows. The shot occurs when the computer (your brain) sees the correct sight picture, the target and gun in proper position.

#10 The Mental Game.

Many books have been written about the mental aspect of shooting. It can be the hardest part of shooting, but the rules may be the simplest. For many people negative thoughts come easy, but positive thoughts require work/effort. A negative thought always produces a bad result, a positive thought (that you really believe in) produces a good result. If you think you will miss you will. If you think you will hit (and you have the basic skills to do so) you will! One of the most often heard examples is "don't look at the bead!" (a sure guarantee that you will). The correct thought is "look at the target". We all have an inner voice (dialog). If you are hearing negative thoughts/statements, it is within your power to replace them with positive ones.

The other part of the mental game is the ability to turn off the all the thinking prior to calling pull. Calm your mind, focus on the task, breaking one target, this target.

Lessons to remember

Once you have your basics down, a simple mantra such as "see the target, break the target" is all you should be thinking during the shot.

#9 Learning Resources

Any shooter interested in improving your scores, technique, equipment, or knowledge of the game can utilize a variety of resources. These include books, DVDs, magazines, and instruction. The best place to start is "Trap&Field" the magazine of the ATA (Amateur Trap Association). Trap and Field has many articles each month with shooting tips and instruction. It also has the tournament schedule and tourney results. The ATA also has a very good web site shootata.com.

Another good magazine is Shotgun Sports. Not only do they have good articles, but they also sell most of the popular instructional DVDs and books at their shooting accessories page.

You can also attend a 1 or 2 day trap shooting clinics taught by one of the many championship shooters that tour the country teaching and competing in trap shooting. In the last several years here in Minnesota, clinics have been held by Phil Kiner, Leo Harrison, Harland Campbell, Kaye Ohye, Nora Martin Ross, and other All American trap shooters. Most of these instructors have produced shooting DVD's that are very useful and well worth the cost. I have attended the Kiner, Harrison, and Ross clinics as well as the NRA/ATA Trap Coach school. I look at all legitimate learning opportunities as beneficial and well worth the time and effort.

A couple of things you can do that don't cost you any money, is to watch as many targets and top level shooters as you can. You can also ask questions and advice from your coaches, industry professionals, and champion shooters. Most will be happy to help you as long as you pick the appropriate time to speak to them. There are a variety of web sites or forums devoted to trap shooting. The MTA (Minnesota Trap Association) has a good site. Many other state associations also have web sites. The SCTP has a new site that is developing. The new AIM program also has a web site.

Some people enjoy the trap shooting forums. Just remember not every thing posted is necessarily true and not everyone online is as friendly as the majority of the shooting community.

Lessons to remember

You're never to old or too good to stop learning. What you get out of shooting, is what you put in to it.

#8 Shotgun Chokes

Choke is the amount of constriction at the barrel muzzle in relation to the barrel bore diameter.

There is no SAAMI specifications for shotgun bore size or chokes. Before modern shot shells with the plastic shot cups were available, bore diameters were smaller and tighter chokes were more common. Today we see larger bore diameters and need less choke to achieve good patterns. Fixed chokes were most common prior to the 1970's, today removable choke tubes are available on nearly all shotguns.

Most shotgun and choke tube manufactures use terms like cylinder, skeet, improved cylinder, light mod, modified, improved mod, full, and trap full to describe the amount of choke (constriction) of their tubes. Typically, each choke tube is ~0.005" tighter than the one before it, but this varies from brand to brand.

Many good trap shooters use full choke at 16 yards, but a more open choke might give you the chance to hit more targets. Start with the most open choke that will reliably break targets. Modified is a good place to start. If your choke is too open, the pattern will not be dense enough to give hard breaks. If the choke is too tight, you will see either smoked targets or clean misses. Most good shooters like to "choke for smoke" but until you reach that level, try the more open chokes.

The only way to truly know actual choke constriction is to measure the bore and choke with a bore micrometer. The best way to evaluate how much choke you need is to shoot targets with the trap locked down for strait aways, and see just how hard your breaks are. Additionally, it can be useful to shoot at a pattern board to determine both pattern density and point of impact (p.o.i.), Patterns for a trap gun/trap load are usually shot at 40 yards, into a 30" diameter circle. A Full choke pattern would be ~70% of the shot inside the 30" circle. P.o.i should be at least 50/50 (50% above aim point,50% below aim point). Higher p.o.i. (more shot above aim point, than below aim point) is very desirable for trap shooting.

Lessons to remember

Always use the same shot shell loads when evaluating different chokes. Pattern boards can be useful, but the truth lies in the broken targets. More targets broken, with harder breaks, is the best choke to use.

#7 Shot Gun Fit

The purpose of gun fitting is to have the shotgun shoot where you are looking (at the target). The ideal gun fit for trap shooting is a heads up, eyes level mount, with the proper sight picture.

The first step is to determine eye dominance and left or right handed shooting (see eye dominance lesson below). Next is desired sight picture. If you have two beads on your shotgun, a figure 8 sight picture is a good place to start. If you see some rib between the front and mid bead that is also ok for trap shooting since it will give you a higher point of impact (p.o.i.). If one bead is left or right of the other bead or if the front bead is lower than the mid bead, the gun will not shoot where you are looking and corrections need to be made.

The simplest solution to bad fit is to re-mount the gun so that the proper sight picture is obtained. This may not be physically possible for some people or may be so un-comfortable that the shooter lifts his head off the comb.

The best solution is to modify the comb, butt plate, cast, and length of pull to make the gun fit the shooter instead of the shooter fitting the gun (see ATA trap shotgun lesson below).

Lesson to remember

You can check your gun fit by asking your parent permission to mount your UNLOADED gun in front of a mirror and checking that your pupil is in line with and level to the beads. BE SURE BOTH YOU AND YOU PARENT CHECK THAT THE GUN IS UNLOADED FIRST. Never have any ammunition in the area where you practice your gun mounts.

#6 Eye Dominance

This is a basic check of dominance. Future lessons will discuss the issue of cross-firing.

There are several ways to test for eye dominance. Hold your hands together at arms length forming a opening the size of a golf ball. While looking at distant object, draw your hands back. They should wind up at your dominant eye. You can also try this with a sheet of paper with a much smaller pencil hole in it. If your dominant hand and eye are on the same side you can shoot with both eye open or close the weak eye ( o.k. for trap but more difficult for other shooting). If you are cross dominant you have several choices. You can switch to shooting from your weak hand so your dominant eye is in control. You can stay with your strong hand and close your dominant eye putting the weak eye in control. Or you can try putting a dot or piece of tape on the lense of your shooting glasses over the dominate eye.

Lessons to remember:

Have your vision tested on a regular basis and re-check your eye dominance at least annually. Eye dominance can change do to injury or aging.

#5 How to shoot a round of ATA trap

Any time you are carrying your gun, the action must be open. When you are waiting your turn to shoot on the trap field, keep your action open. When you leave the trap field, your action must be open. Only close the action to rack or case your gun or when it is your turn to safely shoot on the trap field.

Arrive at the assembly area fully prepared. When you are the next group up, you are "on deck". You should have your safety glasses, ear protection, and shot shell holder already on. Have one box of the proper size shot shells in your holder (vest or belt). Have two extra-shells in your vest or belt for "proofs". When your group is up, un-case your gun and walk out to your station when it is safe to do so. Do not load your gun yet, wait until it is your turn to shoot.

If any problems occur of any kind, at any point, on the trap field, stop what your doing and immediately un-load your gun. Always keep your muzzle pointed down range. If you need help or have a question, do not turn around with your gun. Say "stop", "cease fire", or "I need help".

Generally, the most experienced shooter should be on station 1. He is the squad leader and has several duties. After the other shooters have taken their places on stations 2-5, and the puller (referee), is in place on the chair, AND THE TRAP FIELD IS CLEAR, the squad leader will ask "is the squad ready?" This is a question not a statement. Squad leader needs to visually check that every one is indeed ready. Next he will ask "is the puller ready?" Again a question not a statement. He then asks "lets see a target". The puller will throw a target to allow the shooters to observe it's flight. DO NOT SHOOT AT THIS TARGET! The shooter on station 1 will now load one shell, mount his gun, call "pull", shoot at the target, bring the gun down, and un-load the fired shell. It is now the shooter on station 2's turn and he follows the same procedure, then shooter on station 3, then 4, then 5. This repeated until every one has fired 5 shots on their first station and the puller says "switch". While you are moving to the next station the puller will announce the scores for that station. Do not re-load after the 5 shot. You now move to the right to the next station. Make sure there are no shells (fired or un-fired) in your gun before moving. This is not a race, safety first. The shooter on station 5 will turn to his right and walk behind the other shooters to station 1. The squad leader must wait until all shooters (particularly station 1 ) are ready before leading off again. The squad leader always shoots first, no matter which station he is on. You now repeat the procedure of every shooter taking turns to shoot five shots on each station until all have completed the 25 target event. When done, check with the puller to see your score. The squad leader must sign the score sheet at registered tournaments.

If you are shooting another round on the same field, get another box of shells, and return to your station. If you are through, re-case your un-loaded gun.

Lessons to remember:

Never be afraid to stop the shooting and ask a question or ask for help. The puller is wearing ear protection. Call for your target or ask for help loud enough that he can hear you.

#4 The ATA Trap Shotgun

Any legal shotgun in safe working order, chambered 12 gauge or smaller, may be used for ATA trap shooting. While field, skeet, or sporting clay shotguns can be used for trap shooting, the dedicated trap gun has features that make breaking targets easier. The point of impact (p.o.i.) is higher. This means you can "float" the target and not have to cover it (lose sight of the target). We always want to shoot the target before it begins to fall, the higher p.o.i. also helps us hit a rising target. Trap guns usually have the longest barrels of any shotguns. This can help to smooth the swing, improve sight picture, decrease muzzle blast, and by adding weight reduce recoil. Because we pre-mount the gun in trap shooting, a longer length of pull (lop) is desirable. Trap guns usually have less drop at comb and more cast off (for right hander's) than a field gun. The adjustable comb and adjustable butt plate are seen on most serious trap shooter's guns. With them you can achieve the perfect fit usually only found in a custom made stock. In shot gunning your dominant eye is the rear sight. If your pupil is not centered and level with the rib, your gun will not shoot where you are looking (aiming). Although many people can contort there head, neck, and shoulder to achieve a workable fit, it is more desirable to have a fit that allows a heads up and eyes level gun mount. Other features to look for are lengthened forcing cones and extended choke tubes. Both of these can lessen shot deformation and improve patterning. Porting can reduce muzzle rise (flip) but at the cost of increased noise. One of the new super soft recoil pads can reduce shoulder pain. Several brands of hydraulic butt plates are also available to reduce felt recoil to the shoulder. Perhaps the simplest way to reduce recoil is to add weight to the gun. It is not unusual for a trap gun to weigh 9 lbs. There are clamp on barrel weights and mercury filled rods that slip into the buttstock, magazine, or unused chamber (double barrel gun) available for a reasonable cost

Lessons to remember:

Never load more than one shell in your gun for singles or handicap trap shooting. Load directly into the chamber, never the magazine. The effects of recoil are accumulative and over time lead to flinching. Anything you can do now to reduce recoil will pay off down the road and extend your shooting effectiveness. Flinching is the reason many veteran trap shooters use release triggers.

#3 The ATA Trap Load (shot shell)

Regardless of gauge used, shot size must not be larger than 7.5. Weight can not exceed 1 1/8 ounce. Velocity can not exceed the following: 1 1/8 ounce load-1290 f.p.s. 1 ounce load-1325 f.p.s. 7/8 ounce load-1350-f.p.s. Smokeless power is required. Nickel and copper plated shot are not allowed. 12 gauge is the largest allowed, smaller gauges and bores are permitted.

Lessons to remember:

More is not better in 16 yard trap. Many good shooters have switched to the 1 ounce load and have seen no decrease in their scores and in many cases an improvement. Recoil is not our friend. Lighter loads at similar velocity to heavy loads kick less. More and more we find the lighter loads with their short shot columns pattern better than heavy loads because of less shot deformation. High velocity is not needed at 16 yards either. A load traveling at 1145 f.p.s is sufficient to break any target. Number 8 shot will handle nearly all target conditions. Remember #7.5 is larger than #8, which is larger than #8.5, etc.

Olympic Trap and Skeet shooters use a 7/8 ounce load that works very well.

#2 The ATA Trap Target

The target known as a clay pigeon is actually made of pitch or a newer biodegradable sulfur based compound. The target diameter is 4 5/16", the height is 1 1/8", weight is 100 grams. Colors are usually orange/black, all orange, or white.

Lessons to remember:

Try different color lenses in you shooting glasses to find the optimal lenses for the color of the targets at your club and under different light conditions. If you find that you are dusting targets instead of breaking them, try a larger shot size (up to 7.5) or a tighter choke. A dusted target does not count as a dead bird.

#1 The ATA Trap Field

See "Instruction Pics" for graphics

The field has one trap house containing one target throwing trap machine. Behind the field are 5 stations, 3 yards apart at the 16 yard line. The handicap stations go back to the 27 yard line but are not used in ATA Singles (16 yard) trap shooting.

In front of the trap house, the targets are set to travel 50 yards (un-broken) launched at a height of 8-10 feet over a "T" bar set 30 feet directly in front and center of the trap house. The targets must be able to launch 17 degrees to the left and 17 degrees to the right of the centerline through the trap house, for a total field of 34 degrees. This equals ~ a 90 foot spread at the maximum distance of 50 yards. The minimum target speed as measured by radar gun is 42 miles per hour.

The trap house must be 7.5-9.5 feet wide, 7.5-9.5 long, and 2.16-3 feet high.

The target throwing trap machine oscillates randomly horizontally, but not vertically. The purpose of this to prevent the shooter from guessing where the target will be thrown.

Lessons to remember:

When shooting from station 1, the extreme right angle target is nearly a straight away shot. At station 5 the extreme left angle target is nearly a straight away shot.

Because the targets come out of the house in such a small arc (34 degree) our "look point" is actually quite small. On stations 1&2, the area above the left half of the house, station 3 the middle third above the house, and stations 4&5, the right half above the house.

Good luck, shoot straight, shoot safe!

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Send mail to gunsmith@minnetonkagunsmithing.com with questions or comments about this web site. Last modified: 05/18/10

Send mail to gunsmith@minnetonkagunsmithing.com with questions or comments about this web site.
Last modified: 05/18/10